Chemical dye set
  • Hi,

    I am a silk painting newbie. I am using jacquard green label and am ready to set my first projects. Some of the items may not do well being immersed, so I want to paint on directly, but find very little information about how to do that. Here are some questions;

    Do you dilute the fixative when painting on directly? If so, same proportion?

    How long should it dry?

    Do you rinse it out?

    I have also been using water based resists - did I see somewhere that those should be ironed to fix before using the chemical fix?

    Thanks,
    Sue
  • The Jacquard Permanent Dyeset Concentrate is meant to be used only as an immersion fix for the Green Label Silk Colors, so we don't recommend applying it directly. If the item cannot be immersed, then it is best to use a paint, such as Dye-Na-Flow that is flowable and transparent and is heat set with an iron. Regarding the resist, if it is the clear waterbased resist, it does not need to be set and is meant to wash out with agitation in warm water. The Jacquard Permanent Waterbased Resists should be applied to the fabric, let dry and then ironed to fix them. Then the dyes or paints should be applied with the lines.

    Jenny
  • Thank you, JennyR!

    So the colored water based resists should be ironed before you paint or dye the silk? I have already applied the green label jacquard dye and the jacquard colored water based resist to a few items. Can they be ironed now to set them? Or should I try to set them first? I will try immersing them and see what happens. I have 2 cosmetic bags, and 2 tissue covers if that helps.

    Thanks so much for your help, this forum is GREAT!

    Sue
  • Yes, the colored resists should be ironed before the dye or paint is applied. You should heat set the resist now, otherwise it could bleed when you immerse it. However, applying heat to the dyes before they are set could cause color shifts. So, you'll want to prepare yourself for that possibility.

    Jenny
  • Thanks, Jenny, I'll try it.

    Sue
  • I actually have painted on the dyeset. I have a couple of luscious silk capes that were beautifully dyeset by painting it on. (I've painted about 80 scarves & sold them. I usually do the immersion technique.) But, I had too much black in the design and I was afraid of it migrating off the silk and back staining onto the other colors during immersion & agitation and dulling them.

    DharmaTrading.com does list painting on dyeset as an alternative instruction, here in step 6:

    http://www.dharmatrading.com/projects/scarf_jacss.html

    Dilute as per the instructions, "Mix about 2 capfuls of dyeset into 8 ounces of water." I started on the lightest areas, moving toward the darker colors, so the dyeset would bleed toward the dark areas. I used a soft brush that held a lot of liquid and basically just let the dyeset drip off the brush, rather than scrubbing or pushing in the dyeset. As with the immersing in dyeset, there is no need for that.

    I thought painting on the dyeset would move the dyes, just as when painting. But, surprisingly, they stayed in place. The dyeset seemed to lock them in place immediately.

    I left the dyeset on for quite a while. I don't remember how long. Maybe overnight, to really steep & set. (Don't know if that really made a difference.) When I rinsed it out, hardly any dye came off. The colors are fabulous. The cranberry red, turquoise and black were almost as vibrant as if I had steam set them. image
  • Thank you for the information regardiing direct dye set. I will try that! if you did it while the cape was still on the frame, I am guessing you didn't let the dyes dry for a long time before doing the dye set. Is that correct?
  • You always want to let the dyes cure for at least 24 hours before setting. Think of them kind of like food stains. The longer something is on the clothing, the greater the chance the stain/dye will grab on it's own, even before any setting, whether steaming or a dyeset.

    I took the capes off the frame and hung them up for a couple days. I do that with my scarves, too. I use pants hangers with the clips. Clip up the scarves and let them cure a couple days before setting. This way, I can be painting the next scarf while the previous one is hanging to dry & cure. Sometimes the salt still does stuff to the scarf as some of it is stuck on.

    Usually, I also iron them before dyesetting. I use the water-based resists, so I usually have to iron anyway. I just iron the whole scarf, not just the resist areas. (I knock off all the salt first. I reuse salt several times, letting them filly dry in between uses. It's really pretty when pink & blue salt is sprinkled on top of a green or yellow area and it deposits some speckles of pink & blue into the green & especially on the yellow. The salt doesn't react much with the yellow. The speckling helps a lot. :))

    I don't know if the ironing really helps set the dyes. But, with regular food stains, heat usually locks in a stain. That's why, when you accidentally toss a piece of clothing into the dryer in which a stain hadn't fully come out during the wash, that stain usually becomes permanent.

    It seems reasonable to me that working with the dyes, similar things may happen. Plus,
    the green label dyes can be set with steam heat. So, I would think ironing may help a little. Dyes set with dyeset are never as intense as when set with steam. I want to give every chance possible for those dyes to grab on, after all the work I put into them.


    I ended up re-framing the capes to paint on the dyeset. Let the area dry and then moved onto the next area. (I had a frame smaller than the whole cape.) I was afraid that when an area dried, there would be a demarcation watermark from the dry area to the new wet area. That didn't happen. The dyeset is quite remarkable while painting it on. It doesn't react like water does. But, if you do get a watermark, simply take your brush and gently brush back & forth, in a zig-zag motion over each side of the waterline, to smooth out the line.

    Re-framing was a pain, but it was worth it as I had put so much time already into the capes. I didn't want any of the dyes to wash out, or more importantly, to bleed and contaminate each other.
  • Thank you for all the info! I haven't had a chance to get back to the silk painting to apply this new knowledge, but will soon. I really appreciate your input!!! :)
  • I've been using henna for 3 months now. Currently my hair is brown/burgandy, hennaed last week. The lighter orangy reds have already faded. I just can't seem to achieve the results I want. Although I've received a lot of good advice from this site. First, let me say that I have used chemical dyes for many years, usually the light auburn color. My virgin hair color is light-medium brown with some red. Boring brown with tinge of auburn. I have collar bone length hair, trimmed 3 or 4 times per year. But would love to have longer, healthy hair.

    With help from you all, I've got the henna thing down. Straight henna, PP, nothing else, mix with lemon or chamomile tea, at least 12 hour dye release, freeze henna for color intensity. Defrost to room temperature, do skin test. Slather on head liberally. Plastic wrap several times, leave to set for 4-5 hours. A heating pad helps encourage dye release. This method works great. Although I think less time would have resulted in an oranger red, instead dark burgundy red.