aniline dye : discontinued - does anyone know why ?
  • I'm looking for this aniline dye , in the form of 'wood & reed dyes' but no vendors seem to carry it anymore. Not even Jacqaurd lists it on your 'closest distributors' search here on this site !...anyway, does anyone know why ? Is it considered hazardous or is there no market for it that would cause them to discontinue it ? So, would anyone know of some other brand that's available ?...this dye is supposedly, the most pure and vibrant of any concentrated dye.
    thanks
  • It doesn't look good for getting these dyes in the future. Dharma says that they are being discontinued by the manufacturer.

    For their own special purposes the Wood and Reed Dyes may be ideal, such as on reeds with a high natural tannin content, or on acrylic fibers which are will not accept other classes of dye. However, for other purposes, such as dyeing natural textile fibers including wool, silk, cotton, or rayon, they are not the best choice. Other classes of dyes, such as acid dyes for wool, and Procion MX dyes for cotton, show much better lightfastness (resistance to fading that occurs after exposure to light). You can get amazingly pure vibrant colors with acid dyes or fiber reactive dyes, surely not in any way inferior to the Wood & Reed dyes in this respect.

    What are you using the Wood & Reed dyes for? Different uses require different types of dye.

    -Paula
  • thanks for responding.

    I'm sorry that i didnt mention my intent with the dye.
    I attempt to make translucent and opaque base exterior coatings...ya know, outdoors stuff , metal or wood - chairs, bikes, cars, motorcycles, lawnmowers, signs or anything I can have at' out there... my metal shed ? imagine a cool kandy colored tool shed in your neighbor's back yard !heehee
    Why 'aniline' dyes ? because i heard the auto industry uses it ! ...that might be true, but I now doubt it, so why do these pigments still need UV protection after spraying them ? maybe they arent so 'lightfast' as they say....questions questions....if a pigment or dye is hardly lightfast , does that mean a quality UV rated topcoat will make them so ?
    .......should this thread be relegated to the miscellaneous forum ?
    and after all this typin i'm thinking about joining a signs forum...or start one down there.
  • You don't need a dye for the metal items, you need a paint. Dye will not stick to them (though metals are sometimes treated with dyes as part of an anodization process). It's intended for use on textile fibers as well as plant materials such as wood and reeds, not on outdoor furniture. For them to attach to wooden furniture, it must be completely bare and free of any finish or coating.

    UV-resistant coatings will not protect dyes which are damaged by visible light. In some instances, they can make them even more vulnerable to light damage.

    Mendel's still has Jacquard Wood & Reed dyes in stock.

    Paula
  • thaks for the tip, i'll try Mendels' just to get aniline out of my mind.

    I guess I leave out a lot... what I do is mix 'toners' or 'concentrates' into clear carriers/binders to create my own "paint" , I prefer to call them coatings, so as not to confuse or lead anyone to say a translucent or tri-coating is simply applied in a single motion then done with.
    So far this year, i've experimented with pure powders (tho not aniline) and concentrated dyes...with good results using both water-base and solvent base polyurethane clears. The jaquard green label silk dye , i just sprayed last night (over a metallic silver base)looks vibrant enough for the final colors that I like. And it can be thinly mixed to get that deep high build multilayers that translucent candy calls for.
    Now i'm looking at the 'red label' dye that says "twice the concentration" as the green label or I might try the Dupont silk dye (they even say it doesnt contain aniline anymore!) oh man, twice the fun.........ANYWAY, what is the carrier for these concentrates ? Does anybody know ? It cant be water because it disperses well in solvent base urethane.And if i used uro it would destroy the pot life of the dye.
    thanks y'all