stovetop vs. washer for purple shirt
  • I was just wondering why you have to use the stovetop method for dark colors. Is it because they need to be more concentrated to work?

    I'm going to dye a linen cotton shirt black. It started out white and got ink on it then someone put their leftover old tie-dye dyes all over it to make it black, but it ended up blotchy purple.

    Since it's already purpley, medium shade, would it work out OK to use the washer?

  • Since you're talking stovetop and washer I'm guessing you're talking about an all-purpose dye like RIT? If that's the case, the stovetop will give you much more heat, and the garment will also have a longer time in the dyebath than the washer would give it (unless you go back and make the washer agitate over and over, which I find to be a royal pain). Boiling at 212F is a LOT hotter than a washer even at 140F (most people recommend that water heaters be set at 120F to avoid scalding).

    Also, bear in mind that if the shirt is stitched with polyester thread, that won't take the dye and you'll have white "train tracks" around all the seams and hems. I personally don't mind that effect, but not everyone feels the same.
  • For dyeing a shirt black, I'd far rather use a fiber reactive dye, such as Procion MX dye. You don't have to cook the shirt in the dye, since this kind of dye is set at room temperature with soda ash or washing soda, and the results will stay black for years longer than if you use all-purpose or direct dye. You can use Procion MX dye in the washing machine or in a bucket, or you can apply it directly to the shirt.

  • I forgot to mention that I bought some black iDye.
  • You may want to read through this thread - - about iDye.
  • The black iDye for my purpley shirt was a smashing success! Yay!! I used the stovetop method. The shirt is super black. You can't tell it was splotchy at all. Thanks!!!